
Mashti
Malone's
Rosewater Ice Cream and Sorbet. When I tasted Mashti Malone's
homemade rosewater sorbet, it was such an epiphany, such an
exaltation of my taste buds, that I became immediately addicted,
to the point of panicking that I would reach the bottom of the
container and never be able to get any more. A Persian delicacy,
it's like eating an ethereal, frozen perfume, heady, tart and
subtle. It's sugary but not overwhelming, redolent of flowers,
melting sweetly on your tongue, with threads of some rice like
texture, and delightful little crunch. It's like the dessert
equivalent of Barbara Eden in I Dream of Jeanie; it's what you
can imagine Hedy Lamarr in Samson and Delilah nibbling as she
gears up for some hairstyling. There's sour cherry syrup available
to pour on top, but you don't need it; it would almost count
as an abomination. When I rush into Mashti Malone's to get my
fix (never less than a quart, although they sell it in smaller
sizes, including cups), I wait an agonizing few seconds for
the counter person to turn his back so I can actually bit into
the container before the lid goes on, and I never bit into ice
cream, not even in a cone -- who in their right mind does?
LA
Weekly Magazine,Sep 22-28, 2000
Los
Angeles New Times magazine